Not too long ago, I came across a wine list that included the alcohol content of all its bottles. I found myself obsessed—especially since most were a lot more potent (measuring 13 or even 14 percent) than I’d have guessed. According to Marnie Old, Director of Wine Studies at the French Culinary Institute in New York and author of He Said Beer, She Said Wine, wine’s alcohol content has spiked considerably in recent years, even varieties that are typically seen as light.
“The pressure from the critics is for these intense flavors. They come from riper grapes,” she told me. “Over the past few years, winemakers have been deliberately leaving grapes on the vines well after they’d typically be picked, and that translates into more alcohol.”
As wines from warmer climates (where this method can really play out) have become more popular, the high alcohol trend has really started to explode. Riesling grown in California is going to be much more potent than a more traditional one from Germany, for example. A good rule of thumb, Marnie says, is that the more modest and old school the wine, the lower the alcohol in general. Here, her list of what to expect from which bottles:
Very Low—8% or under
White: German Riesling, Portuguese Vinho Verde
Rose: California White Zinfandel, Portuguese Rose
Low—under 12.5%
Sparkling: Italian Asti, Italian Prosecco
White: Spanish Txacolina, French Vouvray/ Muscadet
On the Low Side—12.5% to 13.5%
Sparkling: French Champagne, Spanish Cava, California Sparkling Wine
White: Spanish Albarino, Italian Pinot Grigio, French Loire & Bordeaux Whites, Austrian Gruner Veltliner, New York Riesling, French Alsace Whites, Australian Riesling, French White Burgundy, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Oregon Pinot Gris, South African Sauvignon Blanc
Rose: French Rose, Spanish Rose
Red: Italian Chianti, French Beaujolais & Burgundy, Spanish Rioja, French Bordeaux
On the High Side—13.5% to 14.5%
White: California Sauvignon Blanc, Australian Chardonnay, Chilean Chardonnay, French Sauternes (dessert), California Pinot Gris, South African Chenin Blanc, California Viognier, California Chardonnay
Red: French Rhone Reds, California Pinot Noir, Chilean Merlot, California Syrah, Australian Shiraz, California Cabernet Sauvignon, Argentine Malbec, Italian Barolo
Very High—over 14.5%
White: Spanish Sherry (fortified), French Muscat-de-Beaumes-de-Venise (fortified), Portuguese Madeira (fortified)
Red: Italian Amarone, California Petite Sirah, California Zinfandel, Portuguese Port (fortified)
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Camille
