Stephanie and Matt outside Pure Food and Wine
This installment of “What’s (good)” is set to be a two parter. As in our sushi edition, all-star nutritionist Stephanie Middleberg walks us through the peaks and pitfalls of a specific cuisine. Here, we’ve decided to tackle raw food, something we’re both seeing more of lately. Added bonus: Matt Downes, who’ll be covering part two of this rundown. For several years, Matt was the executive pastry chef at our favorite raw restaurant Pure Food and Wine, where we met up to discuss what it means to give up the oven. Below, Stephanie takes it away with her insightful take on some popular questions.
There’s a lot of talk about nutrient absorption as it pertains to raw food. What’s going on there?
Without question, raw fruits and vegetables provide a ton of vitamins and minerals. Raw vegetables contain a lot of fiber, more so than when they are cooked. Additionally, they have a lot of volume—due to their water content—so you have to eat a lot more to equal the amount of calories consumed from cooked vegetables. On the other hand, some vegetables provide more nutrients when cooked. The thought is that heat activates specific nutrients allowing them to be absorbed by our bodies. An example is lycopene in tomatoes, which is not released unless cooked.
Research on the raw food diet is still scant. Advocates of the raw food diet believe high heat leaches enzymes and vitamins critical for proper digestion. The American Dietetic Association (ADA) disputes this claim by stating “the body, not what goes in it, produces the enzymes necessary for digestion.”
The science of nutrition is still young and much more needs to be determined. To me, it’s not beneficial to isolate a specific nutrient or food item. There are too many factors occurring simultaneously when we eat to determine the precise nutrient absorption of a specific food product, cooked or raw. Does a food item loose some of its nutrients when cooked in water? Perhaps. But is it enough to impede on our overall health? No. The body is still getting many vitamins and minerals.
We need to look at the bigger picture of what food is being eaten and in the greater context of food consumed throughout the day, week, month. All individuals need a variety of foods both raw and cooked in order to be healthy and happy.
Along those lines, it seems like nuts are some of the binding glue in most raw dishes. How should we think about that? Nut cheese and nut butter, for example. What’s the value and damage?
Nuts are extremely healthy. Many people think they are “fattening” and off limits, but the fat is a healthy fat, and are one of best protein sources for vegans/vegetarians. They’re all-natural, and high in Vitamin E, selenium, phytonutrients and omega-3s–all found to contribute to good heart health.
That said, nuts and nut butters are highly caloric. Twenty-four almonds, for example, add up to160 calories. For me, it was extremely interesting to learn that the “cheese” at Pure Foods was made primarily from cashew butter (a richer, creamier nut). There’s definitely a pitfall there: You can visually see 2 tbsp or about 24 nuts, but when it is ground and disguised in food, it becomes extremely difficult to determine how much you’re eating.
Hemp. That’s been a big one lately. What should we think of there?
Hemp is definitely being hyped right now. Hemp’s nutritional advantage is that is contains all of the essential amino acids in a ratio closer to a “complete” protein (i.e. eggs, meat, milk) than other oils or seeds apart from soy. It’s also rich in Omega-3 and Omega-6 Essential Fatty Acids (EFA’s), as well as magnesium, iron, potassium, fiber, vitamin E and calcium. Apparently, also, the taste of the oil is better than fish and flax oil. I do like hemp and would recommend it to clients to use for a great source of protein and omegas. I would add either the ground seeds or milk with oatmeal, cereal, smoothies, etc.
Here’s how it stacks up against other non-dairy milks: Hemp milk: 130 calories, 4g protein; Soy milk: 100 kcal, 7g protein; Almond Milk=70 kcal, 2 g protein; Rice milk: 120 kcal, 1g protein, 10g sugar.
What are a few words to look for or avoid on a raw or vegan menu?
The problem with many vegetarian/vegan diets is that they can end up being too carbohydrate-focused. It’s an easy default. Vegetarian fare also has to thrive and taste good. That means tons of flavorings, sauces, marinades, etc. In general, you want to be smart. Just because you’re eating seitan, doesn’t mean you can get away with ordering it crispy or breaded. And buckwheat noodles are fantastic—as long as they aren’t topped with dense peanut dressing.
I also commonly see meals consisting of beans, sweet potatoes and rice. Although healthy, that’s still very carb-heavy, which can make you feel bloated and lethargic. A good rule of thumb is that you don’t want your plate looking bland, where the only colors you see are whites and browns. Look for color. I always recommend choosing one protein (i.e. grilled tofu, grilled tempeh), plus a veggie, plus a grain/healthy carb (i.e. brown rice, baked sweet potato, squash).
Words to limit: crispy, coconut based dressings/sauces, tzaki, tahini, fried (i.e. fried rice, fried sweet potatoes), peanut sauce, falafel (most likely fried), “creamy” even though won’t contain butter or cream will still not be the best choice. (i.e. creamy soup, creamy pumpkin dressing, creamy wasabi dressing, creamy Caesar), tempeh bacon, breaded and crusted.
Words to look for: steamed, baked, roasted, grilled, seasonal, heirloom; herbs and natural flavors (i.e. cumin, lemon juice, garlic, etc.) and marinades such as ginger-miso, soy sauce, salsa.
As for sauce: If you want to get something like tahini, carrot ginger, or peanut, ask for it on the side, and try to stick to two tablespoons.
If you’re giving up meat, what are some good protein and iron compensations?
Protein: It’s actually asy to meet your protein needs. Most foods except for alcohol, sugar and fats provide some protein. The key is to eat with as much variation as possible.
Vegan sources of protein include: tofu, nuts (almonds), peanut butter, beans, lentils, chickpeas, seeds, tempeh, seitan, soy milk, spinach, brown rice, whole wheat bread, etc. Because plant protein is harder to digest than animal protein, I recommend that clients consume some form of protein with every meal plus snacks.
Iron: Meatless diets can absolutely provide enough iron. The American Dietetic Association (ADA) recommends that vegetarians/vegans eat almost twice the iron as non-vegetarians. Research has found that some vegetarians may absorb less of the iron in their diet verses meat eaters.
Good sources of iron include: soybeans, beans, lentils, enriched cereals, quinoa, dark leafy green vegetables, nuts, seeds and dried fruit. To assist in the absorption of plant-based iron, it is important to eat foods rich in vitamin C (i.e. citrus fruits, berries, tomatoes, peppers and broccoli) at the same time you consume iron-containing foods. For example, combining peppers, tomatoes and beans in a salad. Or having a white bean and spinach soup.
If you’re experiencing fatigue and/or are concerned with your iron levels, I recommend you contact your doctor to get blood work done. An iron supplement of multivitamin may be necessary.
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Camille
